forum Kind of a weird question but... (aka bearded dragons, I need help)
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My parents promised me that if I did well in my classes they'd get me a pet of my choice. I want to get a bearded dragon but I don't know what supplies they need and my research is leading me nowhere. So if anyone here owns a bearded dragon as a pet and knows their setup needs or doesn't own one and is willing to help me research, I'd be eternally grateful.

In return, here are some pictures I found online of bearded dragons that are particularly charming:

@Mojack group

Alright, so I will say I don’t own a bearded dragon, though I’ve been interested in them before - so I’d be happy to help do some research. Those are delightful pictures of beardies by the way.

For tanks, you’ll want something at least twice their length, that allows them to comfortably do a U-turn, and with a height making climbing possible. A useful tip: tank won’t be ‘too big’; in the wild, bearded dragons naturally live in open spaces. A tank can, however, be too small. Basically..the bigger the better. I found these sizes online:

  • Juveniles: 80x50x50 cm (32x20x20 in)

  • Adults: 120x50x50 cm (48x20x20 in)

  • 2-3 adult dragons: 150x50x50 cm (59x20x20 in)

Juveniles can be kept in a 40 gallon ‘breeder’ tank, while adults should be kept in something bigger, like an 120 gallon enclosure. Also, the terrarium does need ventilation! Most Terrariums from what I’ve seen usually have little ports of ventilation, but when you’re looking at this sort of stuff, do a bit of research on different enclosures.
Now for things an enclosure will need:

  • Basking bulb: provides a source of heat for your reptile. It should be located in a high place where the beardie can’t reach, since they can be burnt by making contact with it.
  • UVB 10.0 light: it should cover most of the tank, make sure it reaches the basking spot.
  • A cave: useful for sleeping, hiding or just exploring in. It doesn’t need to be big, but big enough for a full grown bearded dragon to be in (if you get a juvi, keep that in mind). It shouldn’t be too hot either.
  • Substrate: the best substrate for juvi bearded dragons are paper towels/toilet paper, should be non scented as well. Easy to clean, easy to replace. When a bearded dragon gets older you can switch to something else, like coconut, snake bedding, red (iron) sand, etc. Basically anything that won’t clog their digestive track, and won’t mold.
  • Ambient heat emitter: includes a properly installed heating cable, ceramic heating emitter, a heating mat, etc. Be sure to follow installation instructions closely! Heat rocks are also an option, but only use them unless you’re sure of the model since burns have occurred. It should be in the ‘cool’ end of the enclosure (where the temp doesn’t drop under 25C (77F) and doesn’t go over 27C (81F).)
  • water bowl: important to note that most beardies won’t know that there’s water in it by default, and may not drink from it unless instructed. Change and clean the bowl daily. Make sure it can be entered, and that it’s not too deep (should only go up to their elbows.) also note that you may find poop in it, this is normal (but all the more important to change it daily)
  • feeding bowl: this is mainly for greens and fruits/veggies. Some feed their dragons in their tanks, some do it outside, some use a bowl, and some use their fingers. This all depends on your beardie’s familiarly with you, and how squeamish you are.
  • something to climb: I’ve seen that a ‘tree trunk’ or roots work well, in addition to rock walls. Something to climb and use their claws on.

For stuff like diet…

Babies and juvenile dragons are known to not want to eat their greens. This is normal; greens will take a low percentage (talking under twenty percent) in their diet initially. As time goes on, they grow, and as adults, greens can make up to eighty percent of their diet. Do note this varies on the individual dragon, and there may be differences.

Insects for feeding can be put into two categories.

Base feeders are the basis of one’s diet. Diversity is good, but not required. I haven’t included all base feeders, so I may return with more info on this later, but for now:

  • Dubia Roaches
  • Turkestan Cockroaches (note that they can be hard to catch, as in theyre fast. would need a custom enclosure)
  • House Crickets (hard to catch, they’re jumpy. Would also need a custom enclosure for storage purposes)
  • Locusts (note that they need a custom enclosure, a bit of fresh greens, and they’re usually too big for small dragons.)

And Insect treats, which should only be fed from time to time as a treat.

  • mealworm larvae (reason being they can cause constipation/obesity. best fed after they shed; the larvae will be white.)
  • superworms (if not freshly shedded (they’ll be all white) it’s often safer to cut their heads off or break their chewing apparatus since they can cause physical damage to a bearded dragon. Reason: can cause constipation/obesity, best fed after a shed. You know the drill - they’ll be all white.)
  • Wax Moth Larvae (if not freshly shedded (they’ll be all white) it’s safer to cut the head off or break off the chewing apparatus, as with the superworms they can do damage. Reason: basically lizard chocolate.)
  • Locust (this was in the base feeders, but this can be arguable as it depends on a lot of factors. can cause obesity.)
  • stick insects (good source of vitamins, but can be pricy if they’re a regular part of the diet.)
  • newborn mouse (VERY rich in calcium.)

In terms of plant food, that can be a bit more difficult.

  • For everyday feeding: Tradescantia, Dandelion (greens and flowers), Basil, Melissa, Rucola, Medicago, Clover (greens and flowers), Figs (not the dried ones)

  • for occasional/rare feeding - Coriandrum, Mint, Carrot (root and greens), Dill, Cardamine, Strawberry greens, Raspberry greens, Pea greens, Cucumber, Green Pea, Corn, Green/Red/Yellow Bell Peppers, Cauliflower, Apium, Radish, Tomato, Asparagus, Beans, Broccoli, Kohlrabi, Apples, Pears, Bananas, Grapes, Strawberries, Raspberries, Watermelon, Plums, Peaches, Apricot, Nectarines, Muskmelon, Grapefruit, Kiwi, Pineapple, Mango, Papaya, Oranges, Mandarin oranges

  • should NOT be fed or straight up toxic - Chives, Parsley greens, Acacia leaves, Lettuce, Cabbage, Rumex, Rhubarb (TOXIC), Spinach, Lily of the valley, Monkshood, Ivy, Avocado (TOXIC), Potato greens, Tomato greens, Pepper greens

It’s important for a dragon to have calcium (without D3) and vitamins (with D3).
Calcium can be given with each meal. Vitamins should not. There is calcium in vitamins, but still, should not be given in each meal. Vitamins should not be given with calcium on the same day, calcium should be given very often.

Vitamins should not be applied daily/with every meal - how often they should be given based on your beardie's size:

  • up to 15 cm - 3 times a week

  • from 15-20cm - 2 times per week

  • 20-35 cm - 1 time per week

  • 35-40 cm + - 2 times / 3 weeks (every 1.5 weeks)

For some extra notes:
Temp, UVB and diet are all very important, so make sure you pay attention to that and make sure it’s good.
For handling, never rush this. Relocation can be tough, so once you get your dragon, give them time to settle down.

This is a good resource: http://www.thebeardeddragon.org/

Bearded dragons also need darkness for proper sleep! They do not need any light to be turned on at all.
Also note that with storing live food such as crickets you might find some escapees every now and then.
Again, I’m not an owner - just someone who’s been interested in owning reptiles, and really likes to research.